The Tongariro Alpine Crossing on a bad day

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing on a bad day

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing has been called one of the world’s best day hikes. It winds between two recently active volcanoes, Mt. Tongariro and Mt. Ngauruhoe, and passes bright blue lakes, steaming vents in the earth’s surface, and eerie black lava...
Driving on the other side of the road

Driving on the other side of the road

“Would you like to take it for a test drive?” Omer asked, eager to move along the inspection. I hesitated for a minute. In the months leading up to arriving in New Zealand, every time I mentioned to an American friend that Jenna and I were planning on...
Back in time in the Douro Valley

Back in time in the Douro Valley

As the narrow road winds tightly downhill and we draw further and further from the main motorway, I begin to see glimpses of sparkling water ahead. We pass one stately gate after another, every other one leading to a vineyard or wine estate. We’ve arrived in the...
A port-infused daydream in Porto

A port-infused daydream in Porto

When I caught my first glimpse of Porto, crossing a bridge high over the west end of town, it felt like we were entering a fairy tale. Two hillsides face each other across a wide river; on either side, narrow streets and alleys wind haphazardly between red-roofed...
Honeymooning in Lisbon

Honeymooning in Lisbon

Beautiful Lisbon feels like a European dream—picturesque ruins tumble down next to majestic state buildings; young locals pick up cocktails and stroll along the riverbank at sundown; twisting, abandoned alleyways lead to packed nightclubs. There was no place more...